The Subway Experience

A rush of wind suddenly blows across the platform and against us as we wait, followed by the roar and clank of steel wheels against steel rails, announcing the next silver streak that may be our ride...or not. There is a moment when one sees the colored number or letter on the front car that tells which line this is, but then its a silvery blur as the seemingly endless line of cars pass by within what seems like mere inches until it suddenly yet smoothly slows to a stop. With a whoosh the doors open and people pour out. We wait but we are tense because the train only stops for a few seconds and signs warn about not holding the doors open. Then we board, savoring the cool comfort of the air-conditioned car as we flee the stifling heat of the underground station.

The New York subway system, also called the MTA (Metropolitan Transit Agency) is the 4th largest system in the world, exceeded only by the systems in Tokyo, Moscow and Seoul. It is also one of the oldest systems, with the first underground portion built in 1904, 35 years after the construction of the elevated portions. Today it carries an average of 5 million people on a weekday over more than 230 miles of routes throughout the five boroughs. It is truly an impressive system that we used extensively during our visit.

Our first visit to a station included the purchase of a week-long pass for around $21, which allowed us unlimited rides...which was very handy since we stayed near David and Miranda, in Brooklyn and most of the things we wanted to see and do was in Manhattan.

I have to admit I was pleasantly surprised at the cleanliness and comfort of the subway rides. The cars were air-conditioned and provided a welcome relief to the 90-plus temperatures we encountered most of our stay. (Of course, the principle of cooling the cars means that heat is extracted...and that heat must go somewhere, and guess where? The stations were often underground and stiflingly hot.

Being the inveterate people-watcher that I am, riding the subway was like being in a candy store. One truly sees a wide cross-section of humanity if one rides the subway with any frequency...and David assured me that I really hadn't see anything. We shared cars with well-dressed couples going to the theater or a night on the town, people commuting to and from work, a family pulling their basket cart filled with blanket, beach toys and food for a day at the shore (they don't say "beach" here), Hasidic Jews praying or reading in the corner away from others, evangelical groups singing and handing out leaflets, and the mob of kids on a day camp outing (THAT was interesting!)

Most people pay no attention to one another, but there is the occasional panhandler who boards at one stop and gets off at the next. One in particular boarded, announced in a loud voice that he had just been released from prison and anything we can give him would be greatly appreciated. I learned to not make eye contact...for a LOT of reasons! I understood why most bury themselves in a book or tune out with their headphones.

Not all the stations are underground. This is the F-line stop at 4th Ave/9th Street in Brooklyn, around a 15-minute walk from our hotel.

Our first stop was near Dumbo (yes, that is a real neighborhood, called thus for being Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass)


This is near Times Square. One often finds musicians playing...for donations of course. Some are very good.

We mostly rode the F-line to the City which goes under the East River. This is another line that crosses on the Manhattan Bridge, offering a nice view of Lower Manhattan.

The stop near the Museum of Natural History.

Most of the newer cars have seats along the sides that face inward, though some older cars still have the front or rear-facing seats like those pictured above.

Most stations are fairly small, but there are a few hubs where one can transfer to several other lines. This one extends down for several levels for trains that pass in all directions. Navigating one of these stations can make the whole subway experience seem daunting, and I was impressed with how well Miranda and David knew the system...though I have to admit the subway system app for the iPhone comes in very handy.